Showing posts with label your. Show all posts
Showing posts with label your. Show all posts
Friday, October 17, 2014
Build a PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram
This is a simple PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram. Do-it-yourself phone dialer security system calls your cell phone, office etc. whenever a door or window is opened, or panic button is pressed. Great Home Alarm.
PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram
The circuit consists of a small PIC microcontroller, assembly program, and a few other parts to detect a switch closure from an open door, window, or manual push button and then dial the cell phone number, and transmit a steady tone to indicate the source of the call. The circuit uses the pulse dialing system to interrupt the line connection a number of times to indicate each digit. Pulse dialing (the oldest form of dialing) works by actually disconnecting or "hanging up" the phone line a number of times to indicate each digit. For example, the digit "5" would be dialed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line 5 times in short intervals of about 100mS. There is about a 1 second pause (with the line connected) between each digit. The timing is not critical and I was able to dial 411 and connect to the local information service just using a momentary push button switch in series with the phone line.
PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram
The circuit consists of a small PIC microcontroller, assembly program, and a few other parts to detect a switch closure from an open door, window, or manual push button and then dial the cell phone number, and transmit a steady tone to indicate the source of the call. The circuit uses the pulse dialing system to interrupt the line connection a number of times to indicate each digit. Pulse dialing (the oldest form of dialing) works by actually disconnecting or "hanging up" the phone line a number of times to indicate each digit. For example, the digit "5" would be dialed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line 5 times in short intervals of about 100mS. There is about a 1 second pause (with the line connected) between each digit. The timing is not critical and I was able to dial 411 and connect to the local information service just using a momentary push button switch in series with the phone line.
Circuit Operation:
In operation, the switch closure is detected on pin 7 of the processor which activates the reed relay and takes the line off-hook for 3 seconds to establish the dial tone. The processor then dials the number by opening and closing the relay a number of times for each digit. When dialing is complete, the processor waits 3 seconds and then transmits a steady tone of about 300Hz for 30 seconds through the modem transformer. The call is then terminated and the processor waits for the switch to open before resetting.
Design Considerations:
The PIC16F628 (18 pin) processor was selected because I had a few on hand and my homemade hardware programmer only accepts 18 pin devices. A smaller 8 pin device could have been used since only three I/O lines are needed, but the difference in cost is only about $1.50. One of the I/O lines (RA5) is used for programming and is always an input, but can used as a functional input so the switch closure could be detected on this line thus eliminating the need for one pullup resistor. But I elected to use 3 consecutive I/O pins (7,8,9) of the 8 bit port B and leave RA5 pulled up with a extra 10K resistor.
The output pins (8,9) that drive the relay and transformer are limited to 25mA of current each, so an extra transistor (2N2222A) was needed to supply additional current to the relay coil. The transformer resistance is around 100 ohms, so an additional 330 ohm resistor was added in series with pin 9 to limit the transformer current to around 10mA. An LED indicator and 330 ohm resistor were used on pin 8 to observe the dialing activity and indicate the line status. Several of the parts (relay, transformer and blocking capacitor) were obtained from an old 56K modem card.
The schematic shows a 47uF / 50 volt non-polarized capacitor used to block DC current to the transformer, however a regular polarized 50uF cap could be used if correct phone line polarity is observed. The modem was probably designed to work with unknown polarities at different locations, so a non-polarized cap was used. Its possible the cap and 470 ohm resistor can be replaced with a single resistor in series with the line to set the "off hook" line current to around 20mA. This may cause partial saturation of the transformer and reduced audio level, but might work well enough.
The power supply voltage is not critical and a 4.5 volt supply from three AA batteries should work. Or a switching type regulated 5 volt wall transformer can be used. The problem is insuring the relay gets enough voltage to operate. The rest of the circuit should run on reduced voltage. I used a 4.2 volt cell phone charger that worked well.
Softwre
Sunday, September 7, 2014
How to apply asphalt based sound deadening material to your car
This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.
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Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.
You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.
Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.
To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.
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Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.
If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.
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The application of sound deadening material to your car is a very effective way to make your driving experience more comfortable. It will serve to keep out road and engine noise and keep the sound from your stereo inside the car. Asphalt based sound deadening generally comes in peel-and stick panels. This guide covers the basic method for applying this peel-and stick material and then tell you how, where and why to apply it.
Applying asphalt-based sound deadener is actually quite simple. Begin by removing any interior trim panels so that you have unobstructed access to the bare metal panels that you will be applying the material to. Before you do anything else, clean the surface well using an alcohol based cleaning product that will not leave a residue. Then, start by forming the material to the contours of the surface before you remove the adhesive backing. Using a heat gun or a high-powered hair dryer, heat the material and press it into the grooves of the metal until you are satisfied that it is in full contact with the floor. This is also a good time to trim the piece to fit and cut holes for any bolts or hardware that you may need access to. Allow the piece to cool, then pick it up and remove the adhesive backing. Line it up with the contours, then place it down gently. At this point do not try to adhere the whole piece at once. Instead, use a narrow roller to work from one side to the other, pressing the piece down into every contour. It may help to use the heat gun during this process. Any air bubbles after the piece is fully adhered should be poked through with a sharp blade, and then rolled out for maximum contact. If you need extra deadening, you can layer the material as many times as space will allow.
Trunk: If you have a subwoofer in your car, it is especially important to apply sound-deadening in the trunk. If you do it right, it will prevent annoying rattles and keep the sound pressure level from the sub from escaping through the trunk. Many manufacturers sell kits that contain a good amount of material for covering your trunk.
You should begin the application in the spare tire well and on the metal floor of the trunk. Work from one side to the other to avoid overlapping, and be sure not to cover up any hardware that will be necessary to secure the spare tire or the cargo floor. When you have finished the floor, peel back the carpet on the sides of the trunk and apply material there. If there are holes cut in the metal, you should cover these up if you do not think you will need access to them in the future. For the trunk lid or hatchback door, remove the panels to gain access to the metal inside. Apply liberally here, as sound tends to rise, but be sure that the extra weight of the material will not counteract the shocks that hold the trunk lid open.
Doors: Sound deadening the doors of almost any car will result in a noticeable improvement in sound levels, especially if your front speakers are located in the door. Not only does most of the road noise come in through the door, but the flimsy sheet metal of the door also acts as a poor acoustic surface, creating distortion in the sound of your stereo.
To counteract this, apply sound deadening to the metal inner skin of the door. You don’t necessarily have to cover everything, but be sure to get the holes and the thinnest parts of the sheet metal. The most important part of the door panels is the area surrounding the speaker. If you have enough clearance from the interior panel, apply a few layers here.
Floor: Applying a sound deadening material to the floor of your car will probably not help make your music any louder; however it will significantly reduce road noise and allow you to hear music and people in your car more clearly.
If you are going to deaden the floor, buy enough material to cover the entire metal. This is an involved process, since you probably should take out your seats and carpet in order to gain access to the whole area. The areas to focus on here are the fenders and the surrounding metal since most of the noise comes from the tires. While you’re doing the floor, it is a good idea to apply material to the engine firewall as well. This will reduce engine noise in the cabin.
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