Schematic Diagram

Friday, November 7, 2014

Mini High Voltage Generator

Here’s a project that could be useful this summer on the beach, to stop anyone touching your things left on your beach towel while you’ve gone swimming; you might equally well use it at the office or workshop when you go back to work. In a very small space, and powered by simple primary cells or rechargeable batteries, the proposed circuit generates a low-energy, high voltage of the order of around 200 to 400 V, harmless to humans, of course, but still able to give a quite nasty ‘poke’ to anyone who touches it. Quite apart from this practical aspect, this project will also prove instructional for younger hobbyists, enabling them to discover a circuit that all the ‘oldies’ who’ve worked in radio, and having enjoyed valve technology in particular, are bound to be familiar with. As the circuit diagram shows, the project is extremely simple, as it contains only a single active element, and then it’s only a fairly ordinary transistor. As shown here, it operates as a low-frequency oscillator, making it possible to convert the battery’s DC voltage into an AC voltage that can be stepped up via the transformer.

Using a centre-tapped transformer as here makes it possible to build a ‘Hartley’ oscillator around transistor T1, which as we have indicated above was used a great deal in radio in that distant era when valves reigned supreme and these was no sign of silicon taking over and turning most electronics into ‘solid state’. The ‘Hartley’ is one of a number of L-C oscillator designs that made it to eternal fame and was named after its invertor, Ralph V.L Hartley (1888-1970). For such an oscillator to work and produce a proper sinewave output, the position of the intermediate tap on the winding used had to be carefully chosen to ensure the proper step-down (voltage reduction) ratio. Here the step-down is obtained inductively. Here, optimum inductive tapping is not possible since we are using a standard, off-the-shelf transformer. However we’re in luck — as its position in the centre of the winding creates too much feedback, it ensures that the oscillator will always start reliably.

However, the excess feedback means that it doesn’t generate sinewaves; indeed, far from it. But that’s not important for this sort of application, and the transformer copes very well with it. The output voltage may be used directly, via the two current-limiting resistors R2 an R3, which must not under any circum-stances be omitted or modified, as they are what make the circuit safe. You will then get around 200 V peak-to-peak, which is already quite unpleasant to touch. But you can also use a voltage doubler, shown at the bottom right of the figure, which will then produce around 300 V, even more unpleasant to touch. Here too of course, the resistors, now know as R4 and R5, must always be present. The circuit only consumes around a few tens of mA, regardless of whether it is ‘warding off’ someone or not! If you have to use it for long periods, we would however recommend powering it from AAA size Ni-MH batteries in groups of ten in a suitable holder, in order not to ruin you buying dry batteries.

Circuit diagram:

Mini High-Voltage Generator Circuit Diagram

Warning!

If you build the version without the voltage doubler and measure the output voltage with your multimeter, you’ll see a lower value than stated. This is due to the fact that the waveform is a long way from being a sinewave, and multimeters have trouble interpreting its RMS (root-mean-square) value. However, if you have access to an oscilloscope capable of handling a few hundred volts on its input, you’ll be able to see the true values as stated. If you’re still not convinced, all you need do is touch the output terminals...

To use this project to protect the handle of your beach bag or your attachecase, for example, all you need do is fix to this two small metallic areas, quite close together, each connected to one output terminal of the circuit. Arrange them in such a way that unwanted hands are bound to touch both of them together.

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Rolling Shutter Motor Control

An electrically operated rolling shutter usually has a standard control panel with a three-position switch: up, down and stop. If you would like to automate the opening and closing with a time controlled switch, a few additional wires will have to be connected. Typically, the controls are implemented as indicated in the schematic ‘Normal Situation’. If this is indeed the case, then you can see in ‘New Situation’ how the shutter can be automated with a timer. There is only one method to determine the actual schematic of your control circuit, and that is to open the control box and using an ohmmeter, pencil and paper to check out and draw the circuit. Make sure you turn the power off ﬁrst though! Connect a 230-V relay (with both the contacts and the coil rated 230 VAC) to the timer.

The changeover switch between automatic and manual control needs to be rated 230 VAC as well and may not be a hazard for the user. The relay and switch are preferably fitted in a plastic mains adapter enclosure with built-in plug, which is plugged into the timer. It is a good idea to check first if this will actually ﬁt. Because of the manual/automatic-switch, the operation is completely fail-safe and misunderstandings are out of the question. The switch prevents the issue of conflicting commands (with disastrous consequences) when, for example, the shutter is being automatically raised and manually lowered at the same time.

10W Stereo Audio Amplifier Using TDA2009A

This is a schematic of a 10W stereo audio amplifier using TDA2009A amplifier IC. TDA2009A is a good IC provides quality sound. It has built in features like output current protection and thermal protection etc. The circuit can be operate between 8 to 24V DC with 1 to 2 amp here.

10W Stereo Audio Amplifier Circuit Diagram :

If you want to operate this 10 watt amplifier circuit with watt amplifier circuit with mains supply then use a filtered and stable power supply to reduce mains hum. 10 watt out put power can be obtained by providing 20V 1.5A to the circuit. Use good and thick heatsink with the IC.

Mains Pulser

The pulser is intended to switch the mains voltage on and off at intervals between just under a second and up to 10 minutes. This is useful, for instance, when a mains-operated equipment is to be tested for long periods, or for periodic switching of machinery. Transformer Tr1, the bridge rectifier , and regulator IC1 provide a stable 12V supply rail for IC2 and the relay. The timer is arranged so that the period-determining capacitor can be charged and discharged independently. Four time ranges can be selected by selecting capacitors with the aid of jumpers. Short-circuiting positions 1 and 2 gives the longest time, and short-circuiting none the shortest.

Mains Pulser Circuit diagram:

In the latter case, the 10µF capacitor at pins 2 and 6 of the timer IC determines the time with the relevant resistors. The value of this capacitor may be chosen slightly lower. The two preset potentiometers enable the on and off periods to be set. The 1k resistor in series with one of the presets determines the minimum discharge time. The timer IC switches a relay whose double-pole contacts switch the mains voltage. The LEDs indicate whether the mains voltage is switched through (red) or not (green). The 100mA slow fuse protects the mains transformer and low-voltage circuit. The 4 A medium slow fuse protects the relay against overload.

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Simple L200 Charger

This circuit came about as the result of an urgent need for a NiMH battery charger. No suitable dedicated IC being immediately to hand, the author pressed an L200 regulator and a 4.7 kΩ NTC thermistor into service. Those components were enough to form the basis of a charger with a cut-of f condition based on cell temperature rise rather than relying on the more common negative delta-V detection.

L200 Charger Circuit Diagram :

The circuit uses the L200 with the thermistor in the feedback loop. When ‘cold’ the output volt age of the regulator is about 1.55 V per cell; when ‘warm’, at a cell temperature of about 35 °C to 40 °C, the out-put voltage is about 1.45 V per cell and the thermistor has a resistance of about 3.3 kΩ. This temperature sensing is enough to pre-vent the cells from being overcharged. P1 adjusts the charging voltage, and R2 limits the charge current to 320 mA. The IC is fitted with a small 20 K/W heatsink as it dissipates around 1.2 watts in use.

The charger circuit can be connected permanently to the battery pa ck . Charging starts when a ‘ wall wart ’ adaptor is connected to the input of the charger. The unregulated 12 V supply used by the author delivered an open- circuit voltage of 18 V, dropping to 14 V under load. Even though the charge voltage is reduced when charging is complete, the cells should not be left permanently on charge.

The author uses the circuit to charge the battery in a torch. After three years and some 150 charge cycles the cells are showing no signs of losing any capacity.

Car Boot Light Warning

On many cars, the boot light will not go out until the lid is properly closed. It is all too easy when unloading the car, to leave the lid ajar. If you are unlucky and the car remains unused for some time, the next time you try to start it, the lamp will have drained the battery and you will no doubt utter a few appropriate words. The circuit described here will give a warning of just such a situation.

A mercury tilt switch is mounted in the boot so that as the lid is closed, its contacts close before the lid is completely shut. The supply for the circuit comes from the switched 12 V to the boot lamp and through the mercury switch. When the lid is properly closed, the boot lamp will go out and the supply to the circuit will go to zero. If however the lid is left ajar, the lamp will be on and the mercury switch will close the circuit.

Car Boot Light Warning Circuit diagram :

After 5 seconds, the alarm will start to sound, and unless the lid is shut, it will continue for 1 minute to remind you to close the boot properly. The 1-minute operating period will ensure that the alarm does not sound continuously if you are, for example, transporting bulky items and the boot will not fully close. The circuit consists of a dual CMOS timer type 7556 (the bipolar 556 version is unsuitable for this application). When power is applied to the circuit (i.e. the boot lid is ajar) tantalum capacitors C1 and C2 will ensure that the outputs of the timers are high. After approximately 5 seconds, when the voltage across C2 rises to 2/3 of the supply voltage, timer IC1b will be triggered and its output will go low thereby causing the alarm to sound.

Meanwhile the voltage across C1 is rising much more slowly and after approximately 1 minute, it will have reached 2/3 of the supply voltage. IC1a will now trigger and this will reset IC1b. The alarm will be turned off. IC1a will remain in this state until the boot lid is either closed or opened wider at which point C1 and C2 will be discharged through R6 and the circuit will be ready to start again. To calculate the period of the timers use the formula: t = 1.1RC Please note that the capacitor type used in the circuit should be tantalum or electrolytic with a solid electrolyte. The buzzer must be a type suitable for use at D.C. (i.e. one with a built in driver).

A Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs

You may have read about cycling NiCad batteries. If not, read a little here ( Reds R/C Battery Clinic) for an excellent overview. Overcharging apparently leads to voltage depression, which can be corrected by one or two complete discharges (to 1 to 1.1 volts per cell). On the other hand, over discharging the batteries to a low or zero voltage can damage them, and if the batteries have not been overcharged and have no voltage depression, cycling just uses up regular battery life. I designed and use this discharger occasionally to remove voltage depression and insure battery capacity is still ok for those planes that have no low voltage alarm.

Note that the 100 ohm resistors are 1/2 watt (these are the load resistors), the rest are 1/4 watt. The red LED lights while discharging, buzzer sounds and discharge rate drops to 15-25mA (for the buzzer) when complete. The discharge load is 60mA to 110mA depending on the battery voltage. Since thats about the same current draw as my Hitec receiver and two HS-80s draw while flying handlaunch, I can use discharge time almost directly to indicate flying time. The buzzer uses enough current to keep a 150mA battery down, but when discharging a 600mA battery, the battery recovers quickly when the load is removed--the buzzer/discharger cycles on and off. Threshold voltage of the discharger is set to 4.2 volts. Since the discharger still draws some current when buzzing, try to disconnect the discharger once the alarm sounds--dont leave it going for hours lest the battery be over discharged.

There are a couple ways you could modify the circuit to work with a 5-cell 6-volt receiver battery pack. The two 1k resistors are a divider network, so one way would be to change the resistors to change the sampling voltage at the comparator. The formula for a divider network is Vout=Vin(R2/(R1+R2)) or R1=R2*((Vin/Vout)-1). Here, R1 is the resistor connected to the positive lead and pin 7 of the comparator, Vin is 5.25 volts (1.05 volts per cell discharge shutoff threshold), and Vout is the reference 2.1 volts (the voltage produced by the LM317T and the 180 and 270 ohm resistors). You can use R2 as the same 1k value that was there before. So R1=1000*((5.25/2.1)-1)=1500=1.5k. So swap the top 1k resistor in the schematic for a 1.5k, and the new shutoff voltage for your device will be 5.25 volts.

To increase the discharge rate, decrease the resistance of the load resistors. You could use four 100 ohm resistors in parallel instead of two, for example, and it would discharge twice as fast. Resistance of a number of resistors in parallel is the value of the resistor devided by the number of the resistors. Here, 100 ohms/ four resistors is 25 ohms. At five volts, current is (5 volts)/(25 ohms)=0.2 ampere or 200mA. Be careful not to decrease resistance too much however--the small signal transistor used in this particular circuit is probably only rated for maximum 500 mA.

Circuit diagram :
Discharger

Parts:
273-074 Miniature Piezo Buzzer, 12v, PC board mount
271-312 1/4 watt 5% carbon film resistors, 500 pieces (Just do it!)
276-1778 LM317T adjustable voltage regulator
276-1712 Quad comparator LM339
276-1622 LED assortment (20 count)
276-2009 NPN Silicon transistor MPS2222A (2N2222)

Custom electronics:

I post this design not because I think this is a brilliant piece of circuit design but because the design works, and it can give you a start on your own experimentation. The idea is to use the power available from the discharging battery to monitor the voltage of the battery, shut off discharging at a preset voltage (here 1.05 volts/cell), and sound an alarm when discharging is complete. To do so means a voltage reference powered by the changing voltage of the battery, here the LM317T and the 180 with 270 ohm resistors. You could just as easily use a LM336 (see the low voltage warning buzzer page) or a zener with resistor, or something else as a reference. Since the reference voltage must be below the ambient battery voltage, a pair of 1k resistors provides the divided test voltage. The LM339 is a four way comparator.

This design uses really three comparators: in addition to the one driving the transistor, a comparator drives the LED and another drives the buzzer. But you could use a single comparator (like the LM311) with the buzzer across the emitter and collector of the transistor, and the LED in series with a 270 ohm resistor across (parallel with) the 100 ohm load resistors. With the transistor conducting, the voltage drop across base and emitter is low, and the buzzer is quiet. The tiny current in a piezo buzzer (7 mA), when the transistor is not conducting, would be divided between the load resistors and the LED, and the LED is dark.
A word about the comparator.

The output of the comparator serves as a meager source of current, but can sink current nicely. In other words, the high logic output of the comparator will not drive the base of a NPN transistor as here. The 560 ohm resistor provides the current here for the transistor base--the comparator takes it away when its output drops to ground. Hmmm . . . . so, maybe use a PNP transistor like a 2N3906 instead with emitter to + and collector to load, remove the 560 resistor and connect the base through a 1k resistor to the output of the comparator, then reverse the logic of the comparator by swapping the reference with the test. . . hmmmmm. Could work. Yep . . . works.