Schematic Diagram: a

Showing posts with label a. Show all posts

Showing posts with label a. Show all posts

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Create a electric shock resistant tool

Youve electric shock?? .. Well, .. it was nice to recover all your gout! Sometimes true .. but we often do not touch circuit accidentally in the work that is still connected with line / grid (pln) .. pissed, wants I think we stepped on the stuff ..!

Is there any easy way to avoid electric shock in repair work .. can even avoid the occurrence of ESD, if we deal with electronic goods which are sensitive to ESD (PC motherboards, mobile phones, circuit digital etc). you raft just like this series .. used as supply for the solder, when dealing with components which are sensitive to ESD and touch (CMOS IC). the greater capacity of the transformer Ampere. the greater the (good) power which can be handled. The second transformer is identical / similar.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Schematic diagram of a USB player

Usb series player is an electronic device or electronic circuit that functions as an MP3 player that is stored on a storage device such as USB flash.

In this usb circuit using an IC as a modifier of digital voice data into analog so that it can be applied to a headphone, or again through the power amlplifier strengthened so that it can be heard through the speakers. IC used in this circuit using IC PCM2902 as a modifier of a digital data into analog data storage.

Below is a schematic diagram of a USB player.

Schematic usb player

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

How to Build a Shake Tic Tac LED Torch

In the diagram, it looks like the coils sit on the “table” while the magnet has its edge on the table. This is just a diagram to show how the parts are connected. The coils actually sit flat against the slide (against the side of the magnet) as shown in the diagram:

Shake Tic Tac LED Torch Circuit Diagram

The output voltage depends on how quickly the magnet passes from one end of the slide to the other. Thats why a rapid shaking produces a higher voltage. You must get the end of the magnet to fully pass though the coil so the voltage will be a maximum. That’s why the slide extends past the coils at the top and bottom of the diagram.

The circuit consists of two 600-turn coils in series, driving a voltage doubler. Each coil produces a positive and negative pulse, each time the magnet passes from one end of the slide to the other.
The positive pulse charges the top electrolytic via the top diode and the negative pulse charges the lower
electrolytic, via the lower diode.

The voltage across each electrolytic is combined to produce a voltage for the white LED. When the combined voltage is greater than 3.2v, the LED illuminates. The electrostatics help to keep the LED illuminated while the magnet starts to make another pass.

Sunday, November 9, 2014

A Car Battery Monitor

A close call on the road can really focus your mind on the importance of having a battery monitor in a car. I had been enjoying a pleasant week of travelling around the countryside at a leisurely pace and taking in the beautiful scenery each day. It wasnt until the final day, with the big rush to return home, that I had to drive at night.My home is deep in the country and on the road I was travelling the closest petrol station may be 80km away. I was travelling through an area that is full of open-cut coal mines and large heavily loaded semi-trailers constantly pound the roads, travelling at quite high speeds. It was around 8pm at night and everything was very dark no street lights or house lights anywhere.

Just as I was going up a hill, the lights began to dim and the engine coughed. A large semi-trailer loomed in the rear-vision mirror as I pushed the clutch in and tried to restart. My speed was falling rapidly and my lights were blacked out - I was like a sitting duck in the middle of the road, as the semi-trailer came rapidly bearing down on me. I just managed to pull the car off the road, as the semi-trailer came screaming past, missing me by inches! After calling for assistance from the NRMA, the problem was found to be a fault in the alternator, which was failing to charge the battery. The battery voltage had been falling under the heavy load of the lights and at the worst possible time, there was not sufficient power for the lights or the motor.

After the initial shock wore off, I put on my thinking cap to come up with a PIC-based solution to the problem. What was really needed was a display and a buzzer, to get my attention should the voltage fall outside a specified range. So my design criteria was set, a series of LEDs could indicate the voltage and a buzzer would also be used to warn of problems.

Main Features:

Visual indication of battery voltage
Audible warning when voltage becomes low
Screw terminals for easy connection
Simple and easy to build

Circuit details:

The circuit is based on PIC16F819 18-pin microcontroller which has an analog-to-digital (A/D) input to monitor the battery voltage and outputs capable of driving LEDs directly, to keep the component count down. There are seven LEDs in all, giving a good range of voltage indication. The topmost LED, LED1, comes on for voltages above 14V which will occur when the battery is fully charged. LED2 indicates for voltages between 13.5V and 14V while LED3 indicates between 13V and 13.5V. Normally, one of these LEDs will be on. LED4 covers 12.5V to 13V while LED5 covers 12V to 12.5V. LED6 covers from 11.5V to 12V while LED7 comes on for voltages below 11.5V. These two LEDs are backed up by the piezo chime which beeps for voltages between 11.5V and 12V and becomes more insistent for voltages below 11.5V.

That might seem fairly conservative. After all, most cars will start with no troubles, even though the battery voltage might be a touch below 12V, wont they? Well, no. Some modern cars will happily crank the motor at voltages below 11V but their engine management will not let the motor start unless the voltage is above 11V. So dont think that a modern car will always start reliably. This little battery monitor could easily prevent a very inconvenient failure to start! So lets describe the rest of the circuit. The incoming supply is connected via diode D1 which provides protection against reverse polarity while zener diode ZD1 provides protection from spike voltages.

A standard 7805 3-terminal regulator is then used to provide a stable 5V to the microcontroller. The battery voltage is sensed via a voltage divider using 33kΩ and 100kΩ resistors. This brings the voltage down to within the 0-5V range for the A/D input of the PIC16F819. Port B (RB0 to RB7) of the microcontroller is then used to drive the various LEDs, with current limiting provided via the 330Ω resistor network. RB7, pin 13, drives a switching transistor for the piezo buzzer.

Software:

For the software, the design follows the basic template for a PIC microcontroller. Port A and its ADC (analog-to-digital converter) function are set up while port B functions as the output for the LEDs and buzzer. Once the set-up is complete, a reading will be taken at port RA2, the input for the A/D convertor. This reading is then compared with a series of values to determine the range of the voltage. This is similar to a series of "if" statements in Basic language. If the voltage is found to be within a certain range, the relevant port B pin will be turned on. If the voltage is below 12V, the buzzer will be turned on for a brief period, to signal a low battery condition. As the voltage falls below 11.5V, the frequency of the beeps will increase, to signal increased urgency.

Building it:

All the parts are mounted on a small PC board measuring 46 x 46mm (available from Futurlec). The starting point should be the IC socket for the PIC16F819, as this is easiest to mount while the board is bare. The next item can be the PC terminal block. The resistors and capacitors can then follow. Make sure the electrolytics are inserted with correct polarity.

Make sure that you do not confuse the zener (ZD1) with the diode when you are installing them; the diode is the larger package of the two.

Even more important, dont get the 78L05 3-terminal regulator and the 2N3906 transistor mixed up; they come in identical packages. The 78L05 will be labelled as such while the 2N3906 will be labelled "3906". And make sure you insert them the correct way around. The buzzer must also be installed with the correct polarity. The 330Ω current limiting resistors are all in a 10-pin in-line package. There are four green LEDs, two yellow and one red. They need to be installed in line and with the correct orientation.

Testing:

Before you insert the PIC16F819 microcontroller, do a voltage check. Connect a 12V source and check for the presence of 5V between pins 14 & 5 OF IC1. If 5V is not present, check the polarity of regulator REG1 and the polarity of the diode D1. If these tests are OK, insert the IC and test the unit over a range of voltage between 9V and 15V. Make sure that all LEDs come on in sequence and the piezo buzzer beeps for voltages below 12V.

Now it is matter of installing the unit in your car. It is preferable to install the unit in a visible position for the driver. However, it should not obscure any other instruments. The unit should be connected to the cars 12V supply after the ignition switch. This will turn the unit off with the other instruments and prevent battery drain while the motor is not running.

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

A Discharger for Receiver Battery Packs

You may have read about cycling NiCad batteries. If not, read a little here ( Reds R/C Battery Clinic) for an excellent overview. Overcharging apparently leads to voltage depression, which can be corrected by one or two complete discharges (to 1 to 1.1 volts per cell). On the other hand, over discharging the batteries to a low or zero voltage can damage them, and if the batteries have not been overcharged and have no voltage depression, cycling just uses up regular battery life. I designed and use this discharger occasionally to remove voltage depression and insure battery capacity is still ok for those planes that have no low voltage alarm.

Note that the 100 ohm resistors are 1/2 watt (these are the load resistors), the rest are 1/4 watt. The red LED lights while discharging, buzzer sounds and discharge rate drops to 15-25mA (for the buzzer) when complete. The discharge load is 60mA to 110mA depending on the battery voltage. Since thats about the same current draw as my Hitec receiver and two HS-80s draw while flying handlaunch, I can use discharge time almost directly to indicate flying time. The buzzer uses enough current to keep a 150mA battery down, but when discharging a 600mA battery, the battery recovers quickly when the load is removed--the buzzer/discharger cycles on and off. Threshold voltage of the discharger is set to 4.2 volts. Since the discharger still draws some current when buzzing, try to disconnect the discharger once the alarm sounds--dont leave it going for hours lest the battery be over discharged.

Discharger

There are a couple ways you could modify the circuit to work with a 5-cell 6-volt receiver battery pack. The two 1k resistors are a divider network, so one way would be to change the resistors to change the sampling voltage at the comparator. The formula for a divider network is Vout=Vin(R2/(R1+R2)) or R1=R2*((Vin/Vout)-1). Here, R1 is the resistor connected to the positive lead and pin 7 of the comparator, Vin is 5.25 volts (1.05 volts per cell discharge shutoff threshold), and Vout is the reference 2.1 volts (the voltage produced by the LM317T and the 180 and 270 ohm resistors). You can use R2 as the same 1k value that was there before. So R1=1000*((5.25/2.1)-1)=1500=1.5k. So swap the top 1k resistor in the schematic for a 1.5k, and the new shutoff voltage for your device will be 5.25 volts.

To increase the discharge rate, decrease the resistance of the load resistors. You could use four 100 ohm resistors in parallel instead of two, for example, and it would discharge twice as fast. Resistance of a number of resistors in parallel is the value of the resistor devided by the number of the resistors. Here, 100 ohms/ four resistors is 25 ohms. At five volts, current is (5 volts)/(25 ohms)=0.2 ampere or 200mA. Be careful not to decrease resistance too much however--the small signal transistor used in this particular circuit is probably only rated for maximum 500 mA.

Circuit diagram :
Discharger

Discharger

Discharger

Parts:
273-074 Miniature Piezo Buzzer, 12v, PC board mount
271-312 1/4 watt 5% carbon film resistors, 500 pieces (Just do it!)
276-1778 LM317T adjustable voltage regulator
276-1712 Quad comparator LM339
276-1622 LED assortment (20 count)
276-2009 NPN Silicon transistor MPS2222A (2N2222)

Custom electronics:

I post this design not because I think this is a brilliant piece of circuit design but because the design works, and it can give you a start on your own experimentation. The idea is to use the power available from the discharging battery to monitor the voltage of the battery, shut off discharging at a preset voltage (here 1.05 volts/cell), and sound an alarm when discharging is complete. To do so means a voltage reference powered by the changing voltage of the battery, here the LM317T and the 180 with 270 ohm resistors. You could just as easily use a LM336 (see the low voltage warning buzzer page) or a zener with resistor, or something else as a reference. Since the reference voltage must be below the ambient battery voltage, a pair of 1k resistors provides the divided test voltage. The LM339 is a four way comparator.

This design uses really three comparators: in addition to the one driving the transistor, a comparator drives the LED and another drives the buzzer. But you could use a single comparator (like the LM311) with the buzzer across the emitter and collector of the transistor, and the LED in series with a 270 ohm resistor across (parallel with) the 100 ohm load resistors. With the transistor conducting, the voltage drop across base and emitter is low, and the buzzer is quiet. The tiny current in a piezo buzzer (7 mA), when the transistor is not conducting, would be divided between the load resistors and the LED, and the LED is dark.
A word about the comparator.

The output of the comparator serves as a meager source of current, but can sink current nicely. In other words, the high logic output of the comparator will not drive the base of a NPN transistor as here. The 560 ohm resistor provides the current here for the transistor base--the comparator takes it away when its output drops to ground. Hmmm . . . . so, maybe use a PNP transistor like a 2N3906 instead with emitter to + and collector to load, remove the 560 resistor and connect the base through a 1k resistor to the output of the comparator, then reverse the logic of the comparator by swapping the reference with the test. . . hmmmmm. Could work. Yep . . . works.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Build a PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram

This is a simple PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram. Do-it-yourself phone dialer security system calls your cell phone, office etc. whenever a door or window is opened, or panic button is pressed. Great Home Alarm.

PIC Security System Dials Your Cell Phone Circuit Diagram

The circuit consists of a small PIC microcontroller, assembly program, and a few other parts to detect a switch closure from an open door, window, or manual push button and then dial the cell phone number, and transmit a steady tone to indicate the source of the call. The circuit uses the pulse dialing system to interrupt the line connection a number of times to indicate each digit. Pulse dialing (the oldest form of dialing) works by actually disconnecting or "hanging up" the phone line a number of times to indicate each digit. For example, the digit "5" would be dialed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line 5 times in short intervals of about 100mS. There is about a 1 second pause (with the line connected) between each digit. The timing is not critical and I was able to dial 411 and connect to the local information service just using a momentary push button switch in series with the phone line.

Circuit Operation:
In operation, the switch closure is detected on pin 7 of the processor which activates the reed relay and takes the line off-hook for 3 seconds to establish the dial tone. The processor then dials the number by opening and closing the relay a number of times for each digit. When dialing is complete, the processor waits 3 seconds and then transmits a steady tone of about 300Hz for 30 seconds through the modem transformer. The call is then terminated and the processor waits for the switch to open before resetting.

Design Considerations:

The PIC16F628 (18 pin) processor was selected because I had a few on hand and my homemade hardware programmer only accepts 18 pin devices. A smaller 8 pin device could have been used since only three I/O lines are needed, but the difference in cost is only about $1.50. One of the I/O lines (RA5) is used for programming and is always an input, but can used as a functional input so the switch closure could be detected on this line thus eliminating the need for one pullup resistor. But I elected to use 3 consecutive I/O pins (7,8,9) of the 8 bit port B and leave RA5 pulled up with a extra 10K resistor.

The output pins (8,9) that drive the relay and transformer are limited to 25mA of current each, so an extra transistor (2N2222A) was needed to supply additional current to the relay coil. The transformer resistance is around 100 ohms, so an additional 330 ohm resistor was added in series with pin 9 to limit the transformer current to around 10mA. An LED indicator and 330 ohm resistor were used on pin 8 to observe the dialing activity and indicate the line status. Several of the parts (relay, transformer and blocking capacitor) were obtained from an old 56K modem card.

The schematic shows a 47uF / 50 volt non-polarized capacitor used to block DC current to the transformer, however a regular polarized 50uF cap could be used if correct phone line polarity is observed. The modem was probably designed to work with unknown polarities at different locations, so a non-polarized cap was used. Its possible the cap and 470 ohm resistor can be replaced with a single resistor in series with the line to set the "off hook" line current to around 20mA. This may cause partial saturation of the transformer and reduced audio level, but might work well enough.

The power supply voltage is not critical and a 4.5 volt supply from three AA batteries should work. Or a switching type regulated 5 volt wall transformer can be used. The problem is insuring the relay gets enough voltage to operate. The rest of the circuit should run on reduced voltage. I used a 4.2 volt cell phone charger that worked well.

Softwre

Thursday, October 16, 2014

Build a Pulse Charger for reviving tired Lead Acid batteries

If you own a motorcycle, a motor home, a caravan, a lawn mover, a day cruiser or maybe a vintage car you must at some point had to write off a lead acid battery. When a battery is improperly charged or allowed to self-discharge as occurs during non-use, sulphate crystals build up on the batterys plates. The sulphate preventing the battery from being fully charged and therefore it is unable to deliver its full capacity. When trying to charge a battery in this state it only gets hot and looses water, the gravity of the electrolyte is not increasing to its normal “full charge” state.

Pulse Charger for reviving tired Lead Acid batteries Circuit Diagram

Pulse

The only thing you do is killing the battery completely. If a battery has a resting voltage of at least 1.8 Volts/cell and no cells are shorted, desalination of its plates can be done. This circuit is an add-on and part for a modification of a normal charger and it takes care of the sulphate problem.

The project: get hold of an old charger, big or small it’s your choice depending on the size of batteries you normally handle (bigger is better). There are some tricks to boost the performance if you need it. Start by ripping out everything except the transformer and the rectifier. Some older chargers are equipped with fin rectifiers, which have high voltage drop and must be replaced. Replace with a rugged bridge rectifier that can cope with the amperes. All wiring on secondary should be short and heavy wire. The rectifier should be bolted to the chassis to keep cool. If the charger have a high/low switch it’s a bonus, if not you can in some cases add a few turns of wire on the secondary winding.

The circuit; a 14-stage ripple counter and oscillator IC 4060 produce a pulse, which is the heartbeat of the circuit. The pulse is feed to the 555 timer that deicide the length of the active output. With the switch you can select long or short pulse output. The output of the 555 timer triggers the zero-cross opt isolator triac driver MOC 3041 via a transistor. This gives the charger transformer a soft start via the triac and the snubber circuit. A small power supply is necessary for the circuit and consists of T1 a transformer 15V 0.1A secondary, a bridge rectifier, a regulator and two caps. Because this project include a charger that is (X) the outcome can differ in performance from one case to another. However this do not mean that your project doesn’t work, but the efficiency can vary. Some notes the snubbercap is a high voltage AC type (X) and the resistors on the mains side is at least 0.5W type. Use a triac that can take 400V+ and 10A+, I use BTA 25.600 but this is overkill in most cases. No PCB sorry!

How it works:
Well the short version. The object is to get the cell voltage high enough for the sulphate to dissolve without boiling or melting the battery. This is achieved by applying higher voltage for shorter periods and let the battery rest for a while. The pulses on short range is about 0.5s on / 3s off and the long pulse range is 1.4s on / 2s off. These times can vary depending on component tolerances. Start on long pulse and if you discover “boiling” (more than with normal charging) in the electrolyte switch to short puls. Don’t leave the process unattended, at least until you know how your specific version of this project turns out. I built ver.1 of this circuit some 10 years ago and have experimented with it but I’m sure someone can improve it further.

Build a 65W Notebook Laptop Power Adapter

Using TOP269EG off-line switcher IC, (U1), in a flyback configuration can be designed a very simple high efficiency notebok laptop power adapter.TOP269EG IC has an integrated 725 V MOSFET and a multi-mode controller. It regulates the output by adjusting the MOSFET duty cycle, based on the current fed into its CONTROL pin.This laptop power adapter circuit will provide a fixed 19 volts output voltage at a maximum current of 3.5A. input voltage range is between 90 to 265VAC.

Common-mode inductors L3 and L4 provide filtering on the AC input. X class capacitor C1 provides differential filtering, and resistors R1 and R2 provide safety from shock if the AC is removed, by ensuring a path for C1 to discharge. This is required by safety agencies when the capacitor value exceeds 100 nF. Bridge rectifier D1 rectifies the AC input, and bulk capacitor C2 filters the DC.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Build a 10 Amp 13 8 Volt Power Supply Circuit Diagram

Sometimes amateurs like to home-brew their power supplies instead of purchasing one off the shelf at any of the major ham radio retail dealers. The advantage to rolling your own power supply is that it teaches us how they work and makes it easier to troubleshoot and repair other power supply units in the shack. It should be noted that there is no real cost advantage to building your own power supply unless you can get a large power transformer and heat sink for a super low price.

Of course rolling our own gives us the ability to customize the circuit and make it even more reliable than commercial units. The circuit in Figure 1 will give us 10 amps (12 amps surge) with performance that equals or exceeds any commercial unit. The circuit even has a current limiting feature which is a more reliable system than most commercial units have. Just like other commercial units, this circuit uses the LM723 IC which gives us excellent voltage regulation. The circuit uses 3 pass transistors which must be heat sinked. Resistor R9 allows the fine tuning of the voltage to exactly 13.8 volts and the resistor network formed by resistors R4 through R7 controls the current limiting.

The LM723 limits the current when the voltage drop across R5 approaches .7 volts. To reduce costs, most commercial units rely on the HFE of the pass transistors to determine the current limiting. The fault in that system is that the HFE of the pass transistors actually increases when the transistors heat up and risks a thermal runaway condition causing a possible failure of the pass transistors. Because this circuit samples the collector current of the pass transistors, thermal runaway is not a problem in this circuit making it a much more reliable power supply.

The only adjustment required is setting R9 to the desired output voltage of anywhere between 10 and 14 volts. You may use a front panel mounted 1K potentiometer for this purpose if desired. Resistor R1 only enhances temperature stability and can be eliminated if desired by connecting pins 5 and 6 of IC-1 together. Although it really isn’t needed due to the type of current limiting circuit used, over voltage protection can be added to the circuit by connecting the circuit of Figure 2 to Vout. The only way over voltage could occur is if transistors Q2 or Q3 were to fail with a collector to emitter short. Although collector to emitter shorts do happen, it is more much more likely that the transistors will open up when they fail.

10 Amp 13.8 Volt Power Supply Circuit Diagram

I actually tested this and purposely destroyed several 2N3055’s by shorting the emitters to ground. In all cases the transistors opened up and no collector to emitter short occurred in any transistor. In any event, the optional circuit in Figure 2 will give you that extra peace of mind when a very expensive radio is used with the power supply. The circuit in Figure 2 senses when the voltage exceeds 15 volts and causes the zener diode to conduct. When the zener diode conducts, the gate of the SCR is turned on and causes the SCR to short which blows the 15 amp fuse and shuts off the output voltage.

A 2N6399 (Tech America) was used for the SCR in the prototype but any suitable SCR can be used. While over voltage protection is a good idea, it should not be considered a substitute for large heat sinks. I personally feel the best protection from over voltage is the use of large heat sinks and a reliable current limiting circuit. Be sure to use large heat sinks along with heat sink grease for the 2N3055 transistors. I have used this power supply in my shack for several months on all kinds of transceivers from HF, VHF to UHF with excellent results and absolutely no hum. This power supply will be a welcome addition to your shack and will greatly enhance your knowledge of power supplies.

Parts
R1 1.5K ¼ Watt Resistor (optional, tie pins 6 & 5 of IC1 together if not used.)
R2,R3 0.1 Ohm 10 Watt Resistor (Tech America 900-1002)
R4 270 Ohm ¼ Watt Resistor
R5 680 Ohm ¼ Watt Resistor
R6,R7 0.15 Ohm 10 Watt Resistor (Tech America 900-1006)
R8 2.7K ¼ Watt Resistor
R9 1K Trimmer Potentiometer (RS271-280)
R10 3.3K ¼ Watt Resistor
C1,C2,C3,C4 4700 Microfarad Electrolytic Capacitor 35 Volt (observe polarity)
C5 100 Picofarad Ceramic Disk Capacitor
C6 1000 Microfarad Electrolytic Capacitor 25 Volt (observe polarity)
IC1 LM723 (RS276-1740) Voltage Regulator IC. Socket is recommended.
Q1 TIP3055T (RS276-2020) NPN Transistor (TO-220 Heat Sink Required)
Q2,Q3 2N3055 (RS276-2041) NPN Transistor (Large TO-3 Heat Sink Required)
S1 Any SPST Toggle Switch
F1 3 Amp Fast Blow Fuse
D1-D4 Full Wave Bridge Rectifier (RS276-1185)
T1 18 Volt, 10 Amp Transformer Hammond #165S18 (Tech America 900-5825)

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

PIC Prototyping board 18F2550 – USB enabled

That’s a very nice PIC Prototyping board based on 18F2550 USB enabled microcontroller. Author writes:

“The board features a USB port that can be used with a bootloader for easy programming. Five analog inputs are brought out (AN0-AN4) which can be used to read analog sensors, as well as the two CCP ports which can be used to control servos or other devices. A user LED is built in, using RA4. The onboard USART ports are brought out to a three pin header which can be used to talk to other microcontrollers, or to an RS232 device with a MAX232 level converter. The whole of PORTB is brought out to a header, as well as a pair of power headers. An ICSP header rounds out the board for programming the PIC.”

PIC Prototyping board 18F2550 – USB enabled

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

How to Test a Leaky Capacitor

For checking lower values, C2 can be reduced to say 100 pF or 1000 pF. The blinking rate being a function of the value of C2 and leakage resistance of test capacitor, it becomes faster and is thus more convenient to test high . valued capacitors. Similarly, quality of non-electrolytic capacitor C2 must be better than of the capacitor under test, to give correct indication of leakage of V test capacitor. Otherwise, after completion of initial charging of capacitor, the effective voltage across the neon lamp may not be sufficient due to potential divider action of their relative leakage resistances,
When testing a leaky capacitor the actual blinking rate is a function of both the leakage resistance and capacitance value. For example, a 2ptF capacitor with I0 megohms shunt leak under test produces a blink every few tens of seconds. Therefore, while testing capacitors observe the initial glow to get an idea of the capacitance value and wait a minute to watch for any leakage.
he tester works well with all low leakage type capacitors such as poleyster, polystyrene, ceramic, mica, and paper. All types of non—electrolytic capacitors can be connected across the test probes without observing any polarity restrictions. While testing electrolytic capacitors, the positive terminal of capacitor should be connected to the red test probe and . negative terminal to the black test probe. These terminals should not be reversed. And since the leakage resistances are generally of the order of one megohm only, the value of capacitor C2 is to be suitably increased to reduce the blinking rate so that it will be convenient to identify leaky capacitors.
The test capacitor value should be one order higher than the value of C2, for correct results. Otherwise, when initially both capacitors are charging together in series, the effective voltage across the neon lamp may not be sufficient to show`the initial blink because of the voltage divider action of the relative capacitive impedances. ln the present circuit 0.0l;J.F (10,000 pF) is used for C2 so that a little higher value test-capacitors can be easily evaluated.
A leaky capacitor may not be indicated properly by the neon lamp’s blinking. T V The neon lamp can be any common type meant for pilot lamp on 230V AC. lf its firing voltage is lower, it serves V better and improves the test range toc. Since the tester operates directly on AC/mains, utmost care must be taken to·avoid electric shock. Correct live and neutral wire connections are shown for better safety. Even after turning off power, some stored charge in smoothing capacitor Cl remains for quite some time. So short circuit the test probes after removal of power by turning switch Sl into test position, before handling.
With a little experience and practice, the results can be made very effective. V This tester has more uses such as continuity tester.

How to test a leaky capacitor is shown below:

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Charging a Photo Flash Capacitor Remotely Using a Sec Exciter Coil By Steven Chiverton

The results of this set up is yet to be worked out as i get ac rf over 1600 volts and dc of 306 volts on top of it the output can be varied slow pulses or faster using my slide in slide out core to tune it its output feels hot and the output can charge a high voltage photo flash capacitor up , its still in the experimental stages . but the results i got are a bit baffling so far . And I’m not that good at explaining it so i try to.

Heres a drawing of a simple hv photoflash capacitor charger section it runs off my sec exciter powered hv dc rf output double oscillator circuit, it has a the ability to sense my hand brought near it to and when it dose it can flash pop the charge inside the neon which i found very odd its strange behavior ill document when ever it should happen again.

Heres the latest the 3 section circuits used to charge hv photo flash capacitors the bottom one is the single wire powered double relay oscillator booster or rf amp section thats powered from one of 2 outputs from the 6 series coil sec exciter the box on to of it ios the capacitor charge neon indicator circuit box and the last one on the right is the hv photo flash capacitor charger plug in thats where you plug your hv photo flash capacitor to charge it up, and like always if you have your finger on the top metal part of the capacitor and touch the 2 legs to you finger you will feel a 3 way charge from both electrodes and the top as if its a hv captret .

More Updates from Mr.Steven:

Ive run some tests, now before i get to the led load test from sec exciters positive output to the drivers input ill let you know first now its a long story so bear with me my friend and ill explain as best as i can.
Now the first test was linking a lead from one of the 2 sec exciter 6 series coil to a neon leg , now like always if the lead attached to the neon leg is run strait out and in parallel to the core pipe pulled out, the other neon leg then gets its return feedback energy from the core pipe, to test that you just hold a neon by one leg and bring the other up to the core pipe and it will still light up . But if i run the lead outwards away from the energy emitting core pipe and then link the other neon leg to another lead then run it to the positive input to the driver, the neon gets only a little more power and you can see it getting slightly brighter, but on the other hand if i disconnect that lead to the driver input and then stick the metal clip at the end of that lead directly to the triple row rare earth magnets around one of the 2 power coils, i get the most feedback as the neon then gets very bright and if i take that clip off the magnets and just touch it to the other coil sections i get nothing so the magnets seem to be holding the rf power output otherwise id get the neon glowing to every double insulated coil section i touch the alligator clip to, that runs to that neon while the other end is still linked to the positive rf output , now the next test attached to one leg of the neon i have a 1m resister and if i link that to the positive rf output and the other lead from the other neon leg to the magnets i get the neon glowing very bright, so from the positive output to the magnets i get the most power output in this type of feedback method via the coupling effect with the magnets . the same applies with the core removed /air core. and the results get even confusing as the neon at times pending on how i got the core responds but it can be dim and if i run a lead to the drivers input it can go out and i have the switch set to 9 volts dc 500 milliamps if i set it to 9 volts dc 400 milliamps i get nothing,
now the led load test well the led doesn’t have a gas like the neon so no worries about it glowing in the presents of an rf field or energy from the core . now i run the positive output to an led negative leg and then the positive led leg lead runs to the drivers positive input , the led gets bright but if i run the positive towers output to the led positive led leg and the other led negative leg to the drivers negative input i get nothing the led is then barely dim but with the negative towers output to led positive and leds negative leg run to the drivers positive and to the drivers negative the led lights both ways,
and get bright to so its as if the neg and positive input to driver had both negative and positive in it yes swagatam, its a really confusing one but very strange and i cant believe it myself led positive runs to sec exciters negative output and the leds negative to either of the drivers pos and neg inputs still lights the led bright. im really confused now, im going nuts here with confusion ive written the details down as i got them . i think im getting such weird results i just cant believe it im really scratching my head now and the positive to negative and negative to positive thing sounds like a series battery set-up. But its the fact that i got an led bright using neg and pos inputs to one led leg while the other was linked to one of the towers outputs is weird , well what do you think now i didnt video these tests as it was to long and would take ages to upload this ive got a drawing it shows some of the test results.

I have a power transistor circuit set up as a Darlington pair and its powered from a 9 volts dc battery and uses an ignition coil it puts out hv ac but when i ran the ac outputs to a bridge rectifier then a capacitor charge indicator circuit to see if it to can charge the capacitor up it didnt work but i have another idea to try yet , a brilliant circuit i once put together to use the ac output of the ignition coil to charge a hv photo flash capacitor up with i just have to find the schematics for it then try it on that as it was originally used at the ac output of an ignition coil driven by an ignition coil driver circuit.

The first design is one i come up with years ago when i built a few hv photo flash capacitor chargers this is based on another circuit which i had to make some changes to suit my hv cap charger the next circuit is what mine was based on you can see how different they look now they are photo flash cap charger indicator circuits. the 3rd circuit is a design i come up with to turn the hv output of an ignition coil powered by a 2n3055 driver circuit, into a hv photo flash capacitor charger i built this years ago and just dug it out of my papers here this same circuit i used to charge hv photo flash capacitors using the old disc shaped fly-back transformer which doesnt have the inbuilt hv trippler that puts out hv dc like the newer ones do and the disc shaped fly-back transformers put out only hv ac when powered by a driver circuit which was originally the simple vortex cannon driver circuit . so ill be experimenting with these again and try to come up with some newer sec exciter powered hv cap chargers or just a normal hv photo flash capacitor charger.

THIS IS MY LATEST CIRCUIT SEC EXCITER POWERED SCR PHOTOFLASH CAPACITOR CHARGER AND THE SCR S GATE APPEARS TO BE INITIATED BY TOUCHING YOUR FINGER TO A CONTACT POINT AND THE PARALLEL PHOTO FLASH CAPACITORS ALSO WHEN CHARGED WILL PUMP A CHARGE RIGHT FROM THE TOP CAN THROUGH YOUR FINGERS AND BAC K TO ONE OF THE TERMINALS SO ITS THEN A HIGH VOLTAGE CAPTRET THAT ACTS LIKE A HV CIRCULATION PUMP, THIS NEW IDEA WORKS LIKE THE REST WITH MY SPECIALLY DESIGNED SEC EXCITER COIL TOWERS AND DRIVER CIRCUITS AND OTHER ADDITIONS.

Any of your viewers intend on building the sec powered photoflash cap charger has to take into consideration , note that when i say Im powering it from the output of the sec exciters coil tower i failed to mention that its not the real actual coil output , i have the microwave capacitor circuit that links the actual sec exciter coil output first and the split outputs positive and negative is what Im using so to charge the hv photoflash capacitor up i have to link the charger circuit to either of the sec exciter coils microwave cap circuits outputs to do this so please mention it in your blog and if anyone followed that blog well they may of already picked it out that Im using a circuit between the output of the sec exciter coils and the cap charger which is part of the whole set up.

AS FOR THE FIRST SCR PHOTOFLASH CAPACITOR CHARGER AND THE SCR PHOTOFLASH DISCHARGE CIRCIUT LINKING IT, IVE SUCCESSFULLY BREWED BOTTLES OF COLLIODAL SILVER WITH IT USING THE CONTINUOUSLY GATE TRIGGERING OF THE SCR IN THE PHOTOFLASH CAPACITOR FIRING CIRCUIT WITH THE 1K RESISTOR USED AS ITS GATE RESISTOR, LATTER I USED MY ELECTRONICS ASSISTANT CALCULATORS OHMS LAW CALCULATOR TO WORK OUT THE CORRECT GATE RESISTOR FOR THE C106D SCR THE GATE CURRENT WAS 500UA MAX AND THERES NO GATE VOLTAGE LISTED IN THE DATA I USE 9 VOLTS ANYHOW BUT THERE WAS LISTED A MINIMUM GATE VOLTAGE 0.2 VOLTS AND I USED THE OHMS LAW CALCULATOR TO CALCULATE 18K FOR THE 9 VOLTS DC BATTERY I USED TO DELIVER 500UA , BUT I COULDNT FIND AN 18K RESISTOR IN ALL MY RESISTOR PACKED PARTS DRAWS, SO I USED 15K AND ITS OK.

THE CIRCUIT IS FIRING CHARGE FROM THE PHOTOFLASH CAP WHEN I RELEASE THE SWITCH BUT IT’S A TRICKY ONE I NEED TO GET THE OUTPUT NEON OUT THEN IT GOES OK OTHERWISE THE GATE STILL CAN TRIGGER CONTINUOUSLY , BUT IF IT DOSE ITS PERFECT FOR COLLIODAL SILVER MAKING ,AND THE SILVER IONS IS PRESENT SO WELL THE LASER USED TO TYNDAL TEST IT IS NICELY HIGHLIGHTED BUT THE COLLOIDAL SILVER TASTES LOVELY AND YOU CANT TASTE THE SILVER IONS IN IT BUT THEY ARE THERE OTHERWISE THE LASER WOULDNT BE HIGHLIGHTED , THIS IS STRANGE BUT OK AS YOU CAN SEE THE SILVER PARTICLES IN THE LASER BEAM..

SO MY NEWEST METHOD OF BREWING COLLOIDAL SILVER USING THE CONTINUOUS PULSE OUTPUTS OF THE CONTINUOUS SCR GATE TRIGGERING IS A NEW ONE AND WORKS WELL .

My latest project with scr single scr capacitor charger and parallel scr capacitor firring circuit failed to work for reasons unknown. so i removed one of the scr s so its a single scr and the second photoflash cap in parallel that i added latter and it conducted voltage ok and was as if both the scr gates were triggering continuously before i took out one of the 2 parallel scrs now its doesnt feel as strong pumping out electricity with one scr than with 2 so in parallel the output felt stronger but still the capacitors werent charging and there was no discharge from them when i pushed the button, and the scr s were new so i ended up dismantling the circuit and reused some parts to replicate my other hv cap charger which is easier , ive learnt one good thing from all this and thats 2 scr s in parallel seems to amplify the output alone when the gates are all acting like there iether latched on or triggering continuously. , when the capacitor didnt charge up enough to get a pulse. and maybe having the relay on the board with the 2 circuits is affecting its function as the reall 2 peace circiut of i, t i still have still function ok . so it may be better to stick to building this as a 2 section design and not integrating it all into one, as for the diodes they are mur types and not the 1n5408 types as used in the still working 2 section circuit hv cap charger

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Choosing a Quality Amplifier

Also keep in mind the quality of the amplifier. A generally good indication of quality build and the power output is the size and the weight of the amplifier itself. Better quality amplifiers will usually have a heavier and larger heatsink versus a low quality amplifier of the same power rating. Do not accept size as a definite indication though. I bought an amplifier at a yard sale for two dollars that was two feet long, eight inches wide and two inches tall that had a five inch square circuit board inside of it. This amplifier was so poorly built that I could actually hear the music I was playing coming from the circuit board itself. However there are many top quality amplifiers that do not follow this rule. The ever growing Class D (and its variants) amplifier is much more efficient and there does not produce as much heat or use as much power. This means a smaller power supply and a smaller heatsink. Because of the high efficiency design of those amplifiers a heavy heatsink is not required.

Also a good indication of an amplifiers true output is the size of the fuse used. True two hundred watt amplifiers do not use a ten amp fuse. Use your head when buying and keep in mind the brands reputation for quality. A quick and dirty way to check the true power output of an amplifier is to take the fuse value of the amplifier (or the sum for multiple fuses) and multiply it by 6 for class A/B amps or 10 for class D amps (higher efficiency). This is by no means an accurate way to judge power but it will tell you if your amp is even close to its specifications. For example, if a class A/B "1,200 watt" amplifier has a fuse value of 25 amps then you can take 25*6 and get 150. So this "1,200 watt" amplifier is more in the range of 150 watts.

If you find yourself on a budget or lack space for many components then the economical thing to do is buy a multi-channel amplifier with the built in features and processors that you desire. This can save a lot of room and several hundred dollars in added component and installation cost. The quality will be a little less as compared to outboard processors but will probably not be noticed. Also, by minimizing the number of components the chance of noise entering into the system is lessened.

Some features and aspects of amplifiers to consider are:

Bridgeable: This feature allows a pair of amplifier power channels to be combined into one channel of greater power. This is usually used for driving a subwoofer although it will work with any other type of speaker as well.

Channels: A channel is one power (speaker) output of an amplifier. The more channels an amplifier has the greater the installation flexibility it will have. Especially in terms of options, future add-ons and upgrades.

Class: This refers to the way the amplifier operates. The three types that are most likely to be encountered are A, A/B, and D. Class A amplifiers are the least efficient in terms of power consumption, staying on continually, but also have better sound in general than A/B amplifiers. They are very, very rare in car audio. Some argue non-existent but in any case dont expect to see any. Class A/B amplifiers are more efficient than the class A design and are the most common type. Almost all amplifiers in the car audio market are of the A/B design. Class D amplifiers are usually reserved for high power subwoofer amplifiers and can reach efficiencies in the 80%+ range. This design can therefore be smaller, uses less current and produces less heat than the other classes. However there are some full range Class D amplifiers becoming available.

Connectors: This is the method of attachment used for wires that are connected to the amplifier, including speaker and power wires. The most common kind is the screw terminal strip. This is a series of screw connectors that can be removed and replaced without compromising the amplifier. The other main type of attachment is the "Molex" type connector. This method involves a wire harness that plugs into the amplifier after the power and speaker connections have been made with a crimp or solder connection. If the amplifier is installed in more than one system these wires can get pretty short over time and become more difficult and even dangerous to work with. A variation on the two is a harness that the power and speaker wires screw into. Then the harness plugs into the amplifier. This is probably the most convenient of all connections. Virtually all amplifiers use the screw terminal strip though many older amplifiers used the Molex or straight wire connections.

Crossover/Filter: A built in crossover can be useful, especially if it is many frequencies of adjustment. A filter is a crossover that only affects one channel, not actually splitting frequencies but simply reducing a range of them. Most amplifiers that have built in filters will have the option for either Low Pass (LP) or High Pass (HP). If you see AP on the filter that means "all pass" which basically means the filter is turned off and passes all frequencies.

Distortion: This is often given as T.H.D. or total harmonic distortion. It is the measure of how much an amplifier will change a signal from the input signal it is given. Figures below 0.1% are negligible and will probably not be heard. Usually the figure can be in the 3% range without being heard but virtually all high quality amplifiers will have a T.H.D. below 0.1%.

Efficiency: This is the ratio of of power input (from the battery) to power output (to the speakers). A 100 watt amplifier with an efficiency of 50% would take in 200 watts of power from the battery and output 100 watts of power to the speakers. The other 100 watts of power would be wasted as heat. The higher the efficiency of an amplifier the better. Most class A/B amplifiers are around 50-60% efficient and Class D around 80%. Amplifiers are generally less efficient at low power and more efficient at full power so this number varies in actual use.

Power Output: The rated power output of an amplifier should be given into a four ohm load, all channels driven from twenty to twenty thousand hertz (20Hz-20kHz). Keep in mind that while the low end amplifiers are exaggerated in their power output, many high end amplifiers are under-rated in their power output. These are sometimes called "cheater amps" because they allow a car audio competitor to compete in a lower power class while in reality having a larger amplifier. This under-rating may be three times less than the actual power output. Look for the CEA 2006 standard when comparing amplifier power.

Power Supply: The two most common types are the IC chip and the MOSFET supply. The IC chip is what is used in most source units (head units) and are only capable of producing about eighteen watts per channel. MOSFET is the more common design and has a smoother sound than the chip design.

Pre-amp Inputs: This is a set of jacks (usuallyRCA Jacks) that will accept a low level pre-amp signal from a source or processing unit.

Pre-amp Outputs: This is a set of jacks (usually RCA Jacks) that pass on a low level pre-amp signal to another amplifier or processing unit. These will sometimes be filtered outputs.

Separate Gain Controls: This allows the gain of each channel of the amplifier to be set independently of the other(s). This allows you to more evenly match the amplifiers channels.

Speaker Level Inputs: For source units that do not have pre-amp level RCA outputs this feature may be used to take the signal from the speaker leads of the source unit. The signal will not be as clean as a pre-amp level output but will be adequate for most factory upgrade applications.

Stability: The measure of how low of an impedance load an amplifier can handle (in ohms). Any good quality amplifier will be two ohm stable while a rare few will go as low as a quarter of an ohm. Ideally an amplifier should double its power each time the load is halved. For example, a one hundred watt amplifier (into a four ohm load) should produce two hundred watts into a two ohm load and so on. This is most useful when running multiple speakers off of a single amplifier or in sound off competitions that are classed by total power output.

Tri-Mode Output: This feature is available under different names but is the ability of an amplifier to run a stereo pair of speakers and a mono subwoofer (or center channel) from only two channels of the amplifier. Personally, I would not recommend doing this. Instead buy a good quality four channel amplifier and bridge two of the channels for the subwoofer.

Tube Amplifiers: These are the least common amplifiers and are also the most expensive. Rather than the traditional solid state components they use old fashioned vacuum tubes. They are said to produce a warmer sound and a smoother midrange than solid state designs. For most systems the standard design will be more desirable.

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Build a Programmable Amplifier circuit Wiring diagram

Build a Programable Amplifier schema Diagram . The intention of the following application shows how the NE5517 works in connection with a DAC. In the application, the NE5118 is usedâ€”an 8-bit DAC with current outputâ€”its input register making this device fully Âµ-compatible. The schema consists of three functional blocks . The NE5118 which generates a control current equivalent to the applied data byte, a current mirror, and the NE5517 .

Build a Programmable Amplifier schema Diagram

Build

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Build a 3000W Stereo Power Amplifier Wiring diagram Schematic

How to Build a 3000W Stereo Power Amplifier Circuit Diagram? Lets start first we define 3000wstereo power amplifier schema diagram this schema has a power output of up to 1500W RMS power amplifier schema is often used to power sound systems spelunker for outdor. In the final image can be seen a series of power amplifiers using 10 sets of power transistors for the ending.

This power amplifier schema using a transistor amplifier from the front, signal splitter, driver and power amplifier. Current consumption required is quite large power amplifier that is 15-20 A 1500W power amplifier diagram for this. Supply voltage needed by the power of this amplifier is the optimal working order symmetrical 130VDC (130VDC-130VDC ground). 1500W amplifier schema below is a picture series of mono, stereo if you want to make it necessary to make two copies of the schema. For more details can be viewed directly image the following 1500W power amplifier schema.

The series of High Power Amplifier 1500W With Transistor

3000W

In the above series of power amplifier 1500W is equipped to control a DC Offset function to set the power amplifier is turned on at the moment and with no input signal then the output should be 0VDC. Then also equipped with a flow regulator to the power amplifier bias. Final part of this power amplifier requires adequate cooling to absorb the heat generated. Power amplifier is not equipped with a speaker protector, therefore it is necessary diapsang protector on the speaker output so that when the power amplifier is not the case turned on the beat to the speaker that can damage the speaker.

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Build a Amplifier Attenuator Wiring diagram Schematic

Build a Amplifier Attenuator Circuit Diagram. A op amp and transistors Q1 and Q2 exponential converter to generate an exponential gain control current, which is introduced into the rectifier. A reference current of 150 pA, (15 V and RZO = lOO-k), is attenuated by a factor of two (6 dB) for each increase of tension in the control voltage. Capacitor C6 slows secure changes to a period of 20 IDS constant (C6 x IR) such that a sudden change in the control voltage will produce a gain change smooth sound. RI8 ensures that for control voltages of the schema will go to great attenuation full.

The rectifier bias current which would normally limit the gain reduction around 70 dB. RI6 attracts more courses of the rectifier. After about 50 dB of attenuation to -6 dB / V slope, with the increase in slope and the attenuation becomes much faster than the schema to close completely at about 9 V control voltage. Al should be a low noise, high intensity, scanning speed, op. R13 and R14 in place around 0 V bias to the output.

Amplifier Attenuator Circuit Diagram

Amplifier

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Build a Lcd Display Power Supply Wiring diagram Schematic

This is the simple Lcd Display Power Supply Circuit Diagram. Laptop computers often use large-screen LCDs, which require a variable and a negative supply to ensure maximum contrast. This schema operates from the system`s positive battery supply and generates a digitally variable negative voltage to drive the display. This figure`s switching regulator creates a negative voltage from the battery supply. The microprocessor data bus drives a 4-bit DAC, which in turn varies the actual regulator output from - 6.5 to -11.5 V.

Lcd Display Power Supply Circuit Diagram

This arrangement allows a staircase of 16 possible voltages between these limits. The schema implements the DAC by using the rail-to-rail output-drive capability of a 74 HC-series CMOS gate. A resistor divider network formed by the 240-kfi resistor, connected to the -V filter capacitor and the resistors, is referenced to the 5-V supply control (the MAX635 regulator).

When the voltage at the VFb pin is greater than ground, the switching regulator turns on. The inductor dumps this energy into the -V filter capacitor. When the voltage at VFb is less than ground, the regulator skips a cycle. The MAX635 regulates the voltage at the junction of the resistor divider to 0 V. Thus, any resistor that the DAC connects to ground (logic 0) will not contribute any current to the ladder. Only the resistors that are at 5 V (logic 1) will be part of the voltage-divider equation.

The entire switching-regulator supply draws less than 150 . You can place the schema in an even lower power mode by interrupting the ground pin. The high-current path is from the battery input through the internal power PMOSFET to the external inductor. Disconnecting the ground connection simply disables the gate drive to the FET and turns off the internal oscillator.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Relay Toggle Circuit Using a 555 Timer

This 555 timer schema below toggles a relay when a button is pressed. Pins 2 and 6, the threshold and trigger inputs, are held at 1/2 the supply voltage by the two 10K resistors. When the output is high, the capacitor charges through the 100K resistor, and discharges when the output is low. When the button is pressed, the capacitor voltage is applied to pins 2 and 6 which causes the output to change to the opposite state. When the button is released, the capacitor will charge or discharge to the new level at the output (pin 3). The parts are not critical, the resistors can be somewhat higher or lower, but the 2 resistors at pins 2 and 6 should be equal values, and the resistor connected to the cap should be 10 times greater or more.

Circuit diagram :

Relay Toggle Circuit Diagram

Advantages of this schema are the large hystersis range at the input which avoids false triggering, and only a few parts are needed for construction. One disadvantage is the relay may be engaged when power is first applied. To solve this problem, you could tie the reset line (pin 4) to another resistor/capacitor combination with the capacitor at ground and the resistor at the +V point. This will cause pin 4 to be held near ground for a short period which will reset the output when power is applied.

The 100 ohm resistor and 100uF capacitor serve to filter noise on the supply line if the schema is used in a automotive application. They may not be necessary. The schema may work well without those parts.

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Build a Metal Detectors CCO schematic Wiring diagram

This is a schematic of a simple metal detector that uses technology CCO, by Coil Coupled Operation. Thomas Scarborough designed this new incarnation of the metal detector, a new genre that he invented in 2004. This is the first project of the Internet and can be built easily.

Metal Detectors CCO Schematic Diagram

Metal

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Build a Full Wave Rectifier Wiring diagram Schematic

This is the simple full wave rectifier schema diagram.When equality of two equations shown in satisfied, full-wave output of schema is symmetrical. The schema uses a CA3140 BiMOS op amp in an inverting gain configuration.

Full Wave Rectifier Circuit Diagram

Full

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